Hiking the Donkey’s Back Trail to Valle del Bove on Etna: A Complete Guide

Every traveler visiting eastern Sicily should set aside half a day to explore Mount Etna. Not just to check off another tourist destination but to experience the unique views and atmosphere that only Etna offers. It’s truly worth it!

Starting Point: Rifugio Sapienza

One of the most accessible spots on Mount Etna, even without a car, is Rifugio Sapienza, located on the southern side of the volcano above Catania. You can reach it by AST city bus from Catania’s central station (Piazza Giovanni XXIII) every morning. Any time of year, the area is lively, with both tourists and locals who come in the summer to cool off and in the winter to enjoy snow activities.

Hiking the Donkey’s Back Trail (Schiena dell’Asino)

Just past Rifugio Sapienza, you’ll find the Silvestri Craters, extinct craters that are easily accessible, even in casual shoes. On a clear day, views from these craters stretch from Catania’s coastline all the way to Syracuse, with the stunning backdrop of lunar-like volcanic terrain beneath your feet. 

Moving onward, take the asphalt road toward Zafferana Etnea and walk for about 15–20 minutes. On the left, you’ll spot a small parking area and a wooden sign marking the start of the Schiena dell’Asino trail.

The Trail Details

The Schiena dell’Asino Trail is of moderate difficulty and takes approximately three hours at a leisurely pace. The total round-trip length is around 5 kilometers (plus the extra 3 km if you’re walking from Rifugio Sapienza). It’s a manageable trek even for children and older adults, as long as you’re in decent health and up for some walking.

Although hiking boots aren’t required, sturdy footwear is recommended due to rocky sections where tripping or slipping is possible. In spring or after rain, the trail can get muddy, and during heavy winter snowfall (usually from late December to mid-March), snowshoes might be necessary.

For more information on how to prepare for an Etna tour, including tips on planning, weather considerations, and choosing the right gear, check out my detailed article.

Flora and Fauna

The trail starts with a gentle ascent through a pine forest, where you’ll encounter characteristic vegetation unique to Mount Etna, such as pine and Etna broom. The shade from these tall trees shields hikers from the sun and wind, creating a serene atmosphere. 

If you’re lucky, you might spot a lizard darting across the trail, a hedgehog rustling in the underbrush, or even one of the harmless snakes native to Etna. The likelihood of spotting one is low, but the trail is peaceful, allowing hikers to enjoy the sights and sounds of the forest undisturbed by crowds.

Rewarding Views at Valle del Bove

About halfway up, the landscape changes to a steppe-like terrain with gentle hills, endemic vegetation, and, if you look up, perhaps a buzzard or kestrel circling above. The closer you get to the summit, the more you’ll notice ancient lava flows and, in the distance, Etna’s smoking South-East Crater.

The climax of the trail arrives as you reach the top of the ridge and lay eyes on the Valle del Bove (Valley of the Ox), a breathtakingly vast valley filled with ancient rivers of solidified black lava. Valle del Bove stretches over 37 square kilometers, with walls reaching heights of up to 1,000 meters.

Valle del Bove’s Geological Background

This unique horseshoe-shaped depression on Etna’s eastern slope was formed around 64,000 years ago due to multiple collapses and erosion events. The area has since been sculpted by various volcanic phenomena, giving it an otherworldly look with steep slopes, towering walls, and specific lava structures (known as “dicchi”).

Practical Tips for Visiting Valle del Bove

– Best Time: Morning is ideal, as the valley is bathed in sunlight. In summer, a late afternoon hike provides a cool escape from the heat.

– Weather Preparedness: Even on sunny days, winds can be chilly at the ridge, so bring a long-sleeved shirt or light jacket.

– Winter Access: Heavy snowfall can make the trail impassable without snowshoes. The trail is typically closed in winter (from December through March).

After taking in the stunning sights of Valle del Bove, you can enjoy a picnic at the ridge’s edge before starting the journey back to Rifugio Sapienza.

Safety and Insect Precautions on Etna

Etna’s pine forests host an insect known as the pine processionary caterpillar (Thaumetopoea pityocampa), whose urticating hairs can cause severe allergic reactions. These caterpillars are most active in spring, often forming long chains or “processions.” Take extra care, especially with children, and avoid touching any nests or caterpillars you may encounter.

Map of the Schiena dell’Asino Trail

For a visual guide to the trail, refer to the official map of Schiena dell’Asino available at Rifugio Sapienza or through online resources.

Getting to Etna by Bus from Catania

– Departure: Daily at 8:15 from Piazza Papa Giovanni XXIII in Catania, the same location as the central train station.

– Duration: Approximately two hours each way.

– Return: The bus leaves Etna at 4:15 PM.

– Ticket Price: €6.60 round trip. For up-to-date schedules, visit the AST website.

Guided Tour Option

For a richer experience, consider joining a guided trek from Catania to Schiena dell’Asino and Valle del Bove. Guided tours offer a deeper insight into Etna’s fascinating geology and history.

Whether hiking on your own or with a guide, the Schiena dell’Asino trail offers a chance to connect with Etna’s breathtaking landscapes and geological wonders. This unique path provides an intimate glimpse into Sicily’s natural beauty and the raw, enduring power of Mount Etna.